Monday, May 18, 2009
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
We made it!
We biked 2,300 Km (1,350 miles) in 34 days of actual riding! from Greece to Estonia...we still have a bit more to enter and exit the ferry to Helsinki, ha! We are at the ferry terminal in Tallin, tired but happy. We made a great feat and we are proud we did it. We will continue writing in the Blog some additional experiences and thoughts, as well as posting additional pictures, but for now we wanted to share with all of you, at least a short message so you know we made it!
Thank you to all family members and friends who followed us through the Blog, your support meant a lot to us! and thank you to all the people that we met on our way during these 6 weeks. You enriched our experiences beyond the imaginable.
Thank you to all family members and friends who followed us through the Blog, your support meant a lot to us! and thank you to all the people that we met on our way during these 6 weeks. You enriched our experiences beyond the imaginable.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
More pictures
Not all computers in the world work alike, so unfortunately we were not able to directly upload the pictures of Serbia, Croatia, Hungary and Slovakia directly to the Blog. But if you want to see them you can go to http://normayevan.shutterfly.com and there you will find all those albums. Just go to the appropiate album and select "view album", them choose "select all" on the right above the pictures and then select "slide show" on the upper right. Hopefully that works. For us, sharing pictures is sharing moments of discovery and joy with all of you! A window onto the wonderful part of the world we are visiting.
Musings
"Do You Want To Know My Secret?" Krishnamurti is said to to have posed this question to an audience he once addressed. His secret, he disclosed, is " I don't mind anything". To me, this great teacher was talking about the analytical mind which judges and evaluates. He was saying that he didn't allow his mind to discolor his experience of life.
Personally, I can mind a LOT of things. I am uncomfortable with dirty glasses, for heaven's sake; and then there's cigarette smoke, heavy traffic, holes in the pavement and food I don't usually eat! These things that I "mind" can be a real source of irritation. And so I have had a wonderful opportunity to observe the part of me which analzyses and passes judgement. "Es lo que es"--it is as it is--says my wise wife--who really minds very little. I find that as I am able to release judgement, the beauty of the experience comes through. It doesn't change what IS, but I can be in the experience without poisoning myself with upset over how it "should be". THAT is an unnecessary thing that clouds the present moment.
Ten thousand flowers in spring,
The moon in autumn,
A cool breeze in summer,
Snow in winter;
If your mind isn't clouded by unnecessary things,
This is the best season of your life. --Wu men
Personally, I can mind a LOT of things. I am uncomfortable with dirty glasses, for heaven's sake; and then there's cigarette smoke, heavy traffic, holes in the pavement and food I don't usually eat! These things that I "mind" can be a real source of irritation. And so I have had a wonderful opportunity to observe the part of me which analzyses and passes judgement. "Es lo que es"--it is as it is--says my wise wife--who really minds very little. I find that as I am able to release judgement, the beauty of the experience comes through. It doesn't change what IS, but I can be in the experience without poisoning myself with upset over how it "should be". THAT is an unnecessary thing that clouds the present moment.
Ten thousand flowers in spring,
The moon in autumn,
A cool breeze in summer,
Snow in winter;
If your mind isn't clouded by unnecessary things,
This is the best season of your life. --Wu men
The Magic of Slovakia
The land of castles. And mountains. And hot springs. Traditional music played over loudspeakers in a small village. Shallow, flowing rivers that call to the canoeist. Or the fly fisherman. Ancient villages. Church bells. More castles. Ski resorts everywhere. Scenery that makes it hard to focus on the road ahead. Well managed forests. Great Beer. [and we don't even drink beer!] Like stepping into a fairy tale. Was that a deer running across the mountain meadow......or a unicorn?
If you haven't been to Slovakia, GO!
If you haven't been to Slovakia, GO!
Hungary
It is evident that setting a goal of 100 km per day is not realistic for a number of reasons: terrain, traffic, sightseeing, checking directions, age [ok, ok!], taking photos and WEIGHT!! Not knowing what is ahead necesitates carrying extra food and water. Our days have varied from 35 to just over 100 km. A good average day is around 80 km. Thank goodness for folding bikes and buses.
We rode out from Croatia to the spa town of Harkany, Hungary. Norma is getting into the "hot springs" thing! After soaking in the morning [with 350 of our closest German friends....], we rode to Pecs where we had dinner with friend [and former housemate] Balaz, and his lovely girlfriend Goby. The next morning we boarded a bus to Budapest, then another to Gyongyos. I can hear the goans of those who exclaim, "You didn't tour Budapest???" Although one could spend weeks in each of the regions and cities through which we have passed, we have a plane for Athens to catch in Finland on May 13th. [From there we overnight before boarding the flight home to San Francisco.]
So often I realize that, although we have an idea....a plan....the actual unfolding is beyond us. Each moment is to be treasured, and I trust that we are where we a "supposed" to be. We meet those who are perfect in this moment. We have the experiences that expand our sense of who we are. Even if an experience is uncomfortable, I can remember, "Thank you for everything, I have no complaint whatsoever."
So it is that we saved the majority of Hungary for another day, and biked out to visit our friend Tamas in Markaz, Hungary. We stayed at his grandmother's house around the corner from his mom and dad's place. What a sweet family! They plied us with food and hospitality....we stayed an extra day! One of the highlights of the trip will be my memory of listening to Norma and Grandma Vali "chatting" with each other. Grandma doesn't speak a word of English [or Spanish either, for that matter] and Norma speaks only a few simple phrases of Hungarian. Yet, these two carried on for an hour--looking at photos, treasures from travels, the garden, and 'talking' about our trip! They spoke the language of the heart--and understood one another perfectly. We may see the majesty of Budapest on another visit; we experienced the core of humanity today. And I am grateful.
We rode out from Croatia to the spa town of Harkany, Hungary. Norma is getting into the "hot springs" thing! After soaking in the morning [with 350 of our closest German friends....], we rode to Pecs where we had dinner with friend [and former housemate] Balaz, and his lovely girlfriend Goby. The next morning we boarded a bus to Budapest, then another to Gyongyos. I can hear the goans of those who exclaim, "You didn't tour Budapest???" Although one could spend weeks in each of the regions and cities through which we have passed, we have a plane for Athens to catch in Finland on May 13th. [From there we overnight before boarding the flight home to San Francisco.]
So often I realize that, although we have an idea....a plan....the actual unfolding is beyond us. Each moment is to be treasured, and I trust that we are where we a "supposed" to be. We meet those who are perfect in this moment. We have the experiences that expand our sense of who we are. Even if an experience is uncomfortable, I can remember, "Thank you for everything, I have no complaint whatsoever."
So it is that we saved the majority of Hungary for another day, and biked out to visit our friend Tamas in Markaz, Hungary. We stayed at his grandmother's house around the corner from his mom and dad's place. What a sweet family! They plied us with food and hospitality....we stayed an extra day! One of the highlights of the trip will be my memory of listening to Norma and Grandma Vali "chatting" with each other. Grandma doesn't speak a word of English [or Spanish either, for that matter] and Norma speaks only a few simple phrases of Hungarian. Yet, these two carried on for an hour--looking at photos, treasures from travels, the garden, and 'talking' about our trip! They spoke the language of the heart--and understood one another perfectly. We may see the majesty of Budapest on another visit; we experienced the core of humanity today. And I am grateful.
Along the Danube
We traveled along the Danube Bike Trail from Bechet and into Croatia. We used a guide published in Germany that was very helpful, athough we traveled 'upstream'--and in the reverse direction of the guide. The gorge of the Danube was phenomenal. At one point it was only about 150 meters wide. The area seems ripe for tourist development, and indeed, some hotels and pensions have been opened recently. There was one canoe rental facility in Orsova. We campedone night in Dubrova, as the local hotels/penions were either full [Orthidox Easter Weekend] or out of our price range. Actually, we got the 'best room in the village', with our tent pitched on a rise overlooking a wide spot in the river, and just around the corner from the narrowest gap! The whole stetch on the Romanian side is part of the Iron Gates National Park.
People have been fantastic, sharing Easter eggs and cozonac--the traditional Easter bread with us! The roads have varied from new pavement and little traffic....to horrible--pocked, with no shoulder and lots of cars and trucks. In some parts of this route there are actual bike paths--separate from the roadway! In Croatia we had to heed signs warning of the presence of LAND MINES in the adjacent fields! [Gotta pee?? Think I'll wait!] We rode by incredible cliffs with carvings and through fields of fruit trees and wheat. Quaint villages with benches full of smiling people and larger cities [including Beograd, Serbia] with the hustle and bustle. The Danube Bike Route Guide cautions the rider that this section of the Danube [from Budapest to the Black Sea] is not for the faint of heart, and we would agree....BUT....there are some fantasic sights and experiences to be had here. We met only two other pairs of cyclists along this part of the journey.
From Beograd we took a bus to Backa Palanka, then rode over the river to Croatia. Again, we bussed along the route to Vulkovar in the beautiful wine country with rolling hills. [Folding bikes are SO cool!! We flip two levers on each bike and whip them into the luggage bay!
Evidence of the war with Serbia is everywhere in Croatia. There are many buildings that still bear the scars of the bombs. The water tower of Vulkovar is left in its damaged state as a memorial to the war. AND there is extensive rebuilding! Cement mixers are rolling, there is patching, reconstruction and new building. There is a feeling of moving forward in the land.
We are soon to leave the river and strike out for the rolling hills of Hungary!
People have been fantastic, sharing Easter eggs and cozonac--the traditional Easter bread with us! The roads have varied from new pavement and little traffic....to horrible--pocked, with no shoulder and lots of cars and trucks. In some parts of this route there are actual bike paths--separate from the roadway! In Croatia we had to heed signs warning of the presence of LAND MINES in the adjacent fields! [Gotta pee?? Think I'll wait!] We rode by incredible cliffs with carvings and through fields of fruit trees and wheat. Quaint villages with benches full of smiling people and larger cities [including Beograd, Serbia] with the hustle and bustle. The Danube Bike Route Guide cautions the rider that this section of the Danube [from Budapest to the Black Sea] is not for the faint of heart, and we would agree....BUT....there are some fantasic sights and experiences to be had here. We met only two other pairs of cyclists along this part of the journey.
From Beograd we took a bus to Backa Palanka, then rode over the river to Croatia. Again, we bussed along the route to Vulkovar in the beautiful wine country with rolling hills. [Folding bikes are SO cool!! We flip two levers on each bike and whip them into the luggage bay!
Evidence of the war with Serbia is everywhere in Croatia. There are many buildings that still bear the scars of the bombs. The water tower of Vulkovar is left in its damaged state as a memorial to the war. AND there is extensive rebuilding! Cement mixers are rolling, there is patching, reconstruction and new building. There is a feeling of moving forward in the land.
We are soon to leave the river and strike out for the rolling hills of Hungary!
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