Bulgaria--

We crossed the border from Macedonia into Bulgaria, and rode down a bucolic river valley; then up the busy expressway to Sandanski-"Sin City." In the valley, we passed Samuil's Fortress-a monument to the 14,000 soldiers who had been captured by the Greeks. Outraged that his best friend had been killed by the Bulgarians, the Greek leader had all the soldiers blinded--leaving only one man in one hundred with ONE eye to lead the rest back home. Later we learned that the King of Bulgaria took revenge, had the commander killed, beheaded--and used his skull as a drinking cup for the rest of the king's life. So many invasions, wars, resettlements, hardships in the history of this area.

Riding on the busy highway is not our idea of fun, but sometimes it's the only way. We stayed at the "Hotel Sandanski"--thank you, Aref!! [We decided to put his farewell gift to good use!] The hotel is the only one in town that uses the hot mineral water for it's baths and pool. The pool was only warm, and the spa--which provides individual hot baths--was closed, so we couldn't get the hot soak we were hoping to enjoy...



The next day we continued up the busy highway, with some ventures onto the side roads where we could. Honestly, when we're riding our bikes with the cars streaming by, I am in almost constant prayer. It helps. As I confirm our guidance and protection, I feel calmer and ride with a steader cadence. And then--when we are able to get on a lateral road, the real joy of touring by bike just blossoms! Many times a day I exclaim, "This is SO COOL!"



Near Dupnitka [please forgive the spelling, as we found this internet cafe unexpectedly, and without our journal or map!] we road out towards Separevo Banja. It was listed on a website as having mineral waters. We got in at dark, and asked a couple on the outskirts were there was a hotel. Turns out he is one of the doctors at the "Sanitorium", and he and his wife led us there, the back way through the dark and lifting our bikes over a gate... We weren't sure what we were in for--what with a few words of Bulgarian, a little English [that his wife speaks] and a bit of Spanish/Italian! [Norma says she hasn't taken Italian, she just speaks Spanish with an Italian accent!! That's my gal! And, the thing is, it works! Gratzie!!] The good doctor went to bat on our behalf, especially when told that our destination was Finland. OH, and about the hot soak? The nurse would come at 6:30 AM sharp for our quick bath before the facility officially opened. And then, "8:00 pffft! Off to Finland" the doctor told us! We ended up with a room with 2 twin beds in the Sanitorium, and once we got our bikes and gear in, Norma and I laughed ourselves silly! We've spent a night in a hostel, a soccer field, a five star hotel.....and a sanitorium! [I know that the term "sanitarium" used to be used for a place of rest and rejuvination, but we are not of that generation! Our own St. Helena Hospital and Health Center used to be called the "Sanitarium", and the road up to it still carries that name...]



The next morning we discovered that Separevo Banja has the only geyser in Continental Europe--and the hottest in the world at 103 degrees C!! It's in the center of town, and near a "Turkish Bath" that is being restored for Summer, 2009. We met Peter at the only place we could find open, a fast food joint. "Pizza for breakfast??" he said in a New Jersey/Bulgarian accent!! Turns out he's just returned to his home town after 30 years as an art therapist in the US. Great guy--invited us over to see his house. Gave us directions to Sofia "the back way". Thanks, Peter, but the mountain pass was a little tough! Beautiful though-even though I bet it was snowing the following day up there! We went to another "spa" town called Benjin Banja. As with so many Bulgarian towns, there were many empty buildings--there was a feeling of lost grandeur. However, the old, decrepit bath house was hopping with people! Mostly Romani go there and use the gender-divided pool/shower facilities. I walked into the men's side, and it was like a scene from another world! Through the steam I could see about 3 dozen naked men and boys showering, in the pools and milling around this small area. And contrary to the meditative calm I've experienced at other hot springs, the tile was reverberating with the din of their shouts! Wow!



The cold wind was really picking up that afternoon. It had been a headwind, but came in from behind us as we turned towards Sofia. It was nearing dark as we found the Hotel Lozenetz--a nice 3 star accomodation a short bus ride from the city center. Sofia is beautiful, and we enjoyed the highlights the next day by foot. Back to the hotel, we gathered our things and took a bus to Montana! NO, we're not homesick for the US, it's a town in central Bulgaria! Good call by the Normster to take alternate transportation, as the city is sprawling, the surrounding mountains are a slog, and...it rained the whole trip to Montana! The bus driver gave us a look when he saw the bikes but was astounded as we folded them into small bundles to stow in the luggage area! We found a hotel close to the bus station, and rode up to the Romanian border today. We are in a quaint hotel in Orjhovo. Our room overlooks the Danube! What a RIVER! This close to the Black Sea, it looks wider than I remember the Mississippi being! It is also very high right now, and appears that it is close to breaching the levees on the Romanian side.

Off to bed. One thing about riding 80+ KM a day is that we sleep REALLY well at night, regardless of the accomodations!