Along the Danube

We traveled along the Danube Bike Trail from Bechet and into Croatia. We used a guide published in Germany that was very helpful, athough we traveled 'upstream'--and in the reverse direction of the guide. The gorge of the Danube was phenomenal. At one point it was only about 150 meters wide. The area seems ripe for tourist development, and indeed, some hotels and pensions have been opened recently. There was one canoe rental facility in Orsova. We campedone night in Dubrova, as the local hotels/penions were either full [Orthidox Easter Weekend] or out of our price range. Actually, we got the 'best room in the village', with our tent pitched on a rise overlooking a wide spot in the river, and just around the corner from the narrowest gap! The whole stetch on the Romanian side is part of the Iron Gates National Park.

People have been fantastic, sharing Easter eggs and cozonac--the traditional Easter bread with us! The roads have varied from new pavement and little traffic....to horrible--pocked, with no shoulder and lots of cars and trucks. In some parts of this route there are actual bike paths--separate from the roadway! In Croatia we had to heed signs warning of the presence of LAND MINES in the adjacent fields! [Gotta pee?? Think I'll wait!] We rode by incredible cliffs with carvings and through fields of fruit trees and wheat. Quaint villages with benches full of smiling people and larger cities [including Beograd, Serbia] with the hustle and bustle. The Danube Bike Route Guide cautions the rider that this section of the Danube [from Budapest to the Black Sea] is not for the faint of heart, and we would agree....BUT....there are some fantasic sights and experiences to be had here. We met only two other pairs of cyclists along this part of the journey.

From Beograd we took a bus to Backa Palanka, then rode over the river to Croatia. Again, we bussed along the route to Vulkovar in the beautiful wine country with rolling hills. [Folding bikes are SO cool!! We flip two levers on each bike and whip them into the luggage bay!

Evidence of the war with Serbia is everywhere in Croatia. There are many buildings that still bear the scars of the bombs. The water tower of Vulkovar is left in its damaged state as a memorial to the war. AND there is extensive rebuilding! Cement mixers are rolling, there is patching, reconstruction and new building. There is a feeling of moving forward in the land.

We are soon to leave the river and strike out for the rolling hills of Hungary!